In March this year, Jim Beam released a versatile, near-clear spirit, Jacob's Ghost White Whiskey ($22), in an attempt to appeal to tequila and vodka drinkers, claiming it's "a whiskey both old fashioned and cosmopolitan" that can be treated like bourbon or mixed in cocktails like a clear spirit. While the label is quick to dispel this white whiskey as a moonshine or an unaged white dog, we couldn't help but scratch our heads and wonder what we were in for. A neutral-tasting spirit? A clear bourbon? A mild whiskey? The label explains it's an aged, 80-proof whiskey that has rested at least a year in charred, white oak barrels, and so us food editors raised our glasses and cheered for the best but prepared for the worst.